A small conversation on the Taste, Texture and Weight of food while matching wines

By in Tastings, Wine and Food Pairings, Wine Chatter and Blather

What is it about wine and food that sometimes can be so earth shattering! It’s probably because the parallels between food and wine are endless. In the same way the method of cooking used, as with winemaking techniques can influence flavors and textures. The way food is cooked has a huge effect on the way it will taste. It doesn’t have to be a puzzle. Basically…fast, hot and dry conserves taste and slow, moderate and moist cooking exaggerates flavors.

Here’s a secret…

When it comes to pairing wines the general rule is that foods prepared in a light method of cooking like poaching or steaming usually requires a fruity lightly acidic wine rather than a tannic one.

As we think this through; the essential methods of cooking are steaming, poaching, and boiling, stir-frying, deep-frying, braising casseroling, stewing, grilling and roasting.

Cooking methods exude the food’s weight and texture which is what creates the variables of taste. Weight is the heaviness of the dish.  For example Osso Bucco is more substantial than salad. You may have put the same seasonings in both but they will each require different wine to compliment it.

Now texture is totally different than weight.  You need to think about the mouthfeel of the wine. Is it smooth? Is it supple? Does it feel like glycerin? Does it grip your teeth or make your mouth pucker (the tannins)? Is it light and crisp? Is there acidity?

Here is a short list on taste, weight and texture to contemplate:

Acidic and Fishy foods– Acidic wines, aromatic, fruity and off dry whites, full bodied reds

Oily and fatty foods – Acidic wines or non-tannin reds

Salty foods – Low tannin reds ; sweet whites

Smoked foods – Spicy reds or oaked, rich and fruity whites

Spicy foods –  Whites with sugar and light acidity, fruity young reds

Regardless of this short list; there is always the technique of comparing textures to see what the food will taste like. Just to see how the tastes blend. Sometimes it turns out just as effective.

Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Book Review – The Billionaire’s Vinegar 2009 – Benjamin Wallace

By in Books - At a Glance

The Billionaire’s Vinegar 2009– Benjamin Wallace

The best wine book right now that can be made into a great movie. The whole Thomas Jefferson wine bottle story is an engaging yarn; kind of Hitchcock-ian. You can see where Michael Broadbent could have gotten a little touchy because it does paint him as a scandalous figure. Today wine fraud is in the news regularly. I hear Johnny Depp may star.

The Columbia Valley! Wake up and jump in with both feet to America’s second largest wine region

By in Washington State Wine

The say that the Columbia River was created when ice dams gave way on an ancient lake and sent a massive flood of water from Montana through Idaho and Washington State.  They also say that this flood was so big that it was as big as the flow of all of today’s rivers combined(that’s more than big!!!) and when you include the non-stop volcanic activity of those times you get the conditions for  great soils for grapevines. Let’s raise our glasses and give three cheers to the Geologists!

The state of Washington is truly becoming a hot spot! The Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and especially the Reisling coming out of this northwest state is to be reckoned with. The Columbia Valley AVA incorporates about 11 million acres of land and you will find  the high end wines as well as the value wines. The Columbia Valley is actually recognized for being the foremost area for value oriented sparkling wines too, done in the traditional method; which rival from time to time the expensive bubblies. Yet their reds are the ones to watch.

The Columbia River forms a boundary between most of Washington and Oregon. The Walla Walla Region is near the 90-degree bend on the river. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most eminent and widely planted grape in the area, followed by Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Franc.

Nearly 40 percent of Washington’s wines come from grapes grown in the Yakima Valley which is different than the rest of the Columbia River Basin in terroir. It’s different because the soils are much more sandy and the weather is cooler. The water drains rapidly in this area and this leads to brighter acidity in the wines. A lot of the times you find that this acidity makes the wines adapaptable to food…and you thought the Italians were the only ones playing on this field!

The Yakima Valley is bordered by some of the states most admired and respected sub-appellations – Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven and Red Mountain; Makes for Great Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.


Further, there is also the new Wahluke Slope which is on the east of Yakima on the Columbia River and is the warmest wine region. This smaller area is known for its Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Giant Chateau Ste. Michelle owns a majority of the Columbia Valley vineyard land ; nevertheless, there are over 250 wineries in the “Columbia Valley” appellation. And really great ones too. Wines such as Amavi, Cadence, Cayuse, Le Ecole No.41 and Leonetti are several to search for.

PS…Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste Michelle are wineries that provide a path to taste alot for starters. Good wines, good values…and they also have very sophisticated wines as well if you enjoy their profiles. I also like what winemaker Charles Smith is doing at all price points. His wines usually have funky names like Boom Boom!, Kung Fu Girl, and Steakhouse…you get the point.

Top 25 Wines of 2012, A Special Report by Wine Correspondent’s Ralph Del Rio

By in 2012 Top Wines

By Ralph Del Rio, Wine Correspondent

It is important to be able to find a wine if you are going to be singing its praises; otherwise it becomes pretty difficult to make your case. Now let’s let all those cult and collectible wines not count for the purposes of this list. I’ve said it before, How good can a wine be if not many people can taste it or afford it and of course that’s a double edge sword. There are many wines that the only way you will be able to taste is to go to your neighborhood wine tastings or to go to wine conventions and things like that. You have to be on the lookout.  Let’s face it, some wines you just have to bite the bullet and pay for the pleasure and there are a few on this list of course.

In my opinion accessibility is significant and the ability to be able to put the pen to paper(or get it on your mobile device)some good notes and if you can get the feedback from others who are tasting with you; makes it possible to communicate your perception on judging the wine.

There are different approached to scoring some rely on telling you about the terroir and the soil and what the year was like for the wine, what the winemaker did to make the wine shine and also comparing it to previous years. Other reviewers go straight for the aromas and flavors.

I like to consider the wines feel and overall makeup including the nose, aromas, tastes and finish. Whether the wines are actually available for purchase. I like to hit what I like to call the ‘mezzo territory’ that often happens when you taste, looking at the breadth versus the smallest nuance, so the regular person can say ‘Yeah, I understand where your coming from’. As with any list there’s always good ones that get left off, nonetheless…without any further interruption, here are my top 25 wines for 2012.

2009 La Fleur de Board Lalande de Pomerol  France

2009 Monsanto Chianti Classic Riserva Italy

2010 Mollydooker  Carnival of Love Shiraz  Australia

2010 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Clark and Telephone Vineyard California

2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac France

2010 Turley Zinfandel Paso Robles Pesenti Vineyard California

2010 Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza Reserva Argentina

2010 Loosen Bros. Dr. L Riesling (Mosel)

2009 Chateau La Vielle Cure, Fronsac France

2010 M. Chapoutier Cotes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila Haut France

2009 Cayuse Syrah Walla Walla Valley Cailoux Vineyard Washington

2009 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve California

2010 Chateau St. Michelle Chardonnay Columbia Valley Indian Wells

2010 Chateau De St. Cosme Gigondes France

2009 Chateau Haut Bergey Pessac-Leogneon Bordeaux

2008 Joseph Phelps  Insignia Napa Valley California

2008 Le Ecole No. 41 Walla Walla Valley Perigree Seven Hills Vineyard Washington

2009 Chateau Haut Bages Liberall Pauillac France

2009 Andrew Will Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard Washington

2010 D’ Arenberg Mclaren Vale Footbolt Shiraz Australia

2008 Echeverria Reserva Syrah Maipo Valley

2009 Cadence Red Mountain Coda

2009 Dabilano Nebbiolo d’ Alba Marghe Italy

2009 Cuvaison Pinot Noir Napa Valley California

2009 Chateau Corton Grancy, Louis Latour Aloxe Corton France

Book Review – The World Cheese Book 2009 –Editor in Chief Juliet Harbutt

By in Books - At a Glance

The World Cheese Book 2009 –Editor in Chief Juliet Harbutt

I am a fan of DK Books when the material is good. Nicely laid out. Great photos. It’s all about the way cheese looks like, tastes like, smells like and where it’s from. Which is why this book is cool! It mike make you cheer if you love cheese and what to know more. This book help you pit one cheese against another and it’s a great way to learn. It gives you a clear thoughtful way to look at the world of cheese.

Barolo and Barbaresco… Two great Italian wines from two great wine producing zones

By in Italian Wine, Tampa Bay Wine Pairing, Travel, Wine and Food Pairings

With such a long rich history Italian wines continue evolving and gaining momentum. Over the past decade we’ve seen great quality especially in Piedmont which is in Northern Italy is at the foot of the Alps. It’s still very Mediterranean though… It is the home of a long tradition of fine wine.  Barolo and Barbaresco are Piedmont’s  red wine Grand Cru’s.  Nebbiolo is the grape and essentially along with Sangiovese of Chianti it is Italy’s most noble grape variety.
In the 19th century after adopting French wine making techniques, a modern style of wine making was discovered that became to be known as the world-celebrated “king of wines, the wine of kings”; a delicious, big brick red  dry style with high acidity that promises many years of cellar aging. These days it seems just about every vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco offer excitement.

The interconnection of Piedmont’s renowned wines is the Langhe region. It is the home of both the Barolo and Barbaresco and a place of dramatic interplay of shadows and sun; foggy yet scenic. It’s unique. The temperatures in the day and night often swing mightily. Sometimes the sky is black and sometimes it’s white. Usually you have pockets rain throughout the summer into the fall. The land is myriad of rich clays and easy draining sand all which helps make commanding wines yet with amusing sophistication.

Today’ these Piedmont reds are conveyed in overindulgences. Some suggest a more modern style which minimizes tannins and maximizes the youthful fruit. It is super extracted fruit style with toasty oak.
The others are more traditional… offering powerful structured savory tannins and a more earthy expressive nose.  It’s the whiffs of tar, leather, perfumes of violets and roses. The grip of the velvet tannins that vibrate on the palate, the racy minerality of the wine from this region along with rushing flavors of cherries, vanilla, figs and black licorice. The wine can be very profound and have the propensity for cellaring( 5, 10 years or more!).
What is interesting is that Piedmont, Italy happens to lie at the same latitude of Burgundy, France and they have a similar summer climate and Piedmont is really the only place that Barolo and Barbaresco can grow with wide-ranging success.

These distinctive wines; both made from the Nebbiolo grape in general terms can be thought of this way. The Barolo is the more substantial, tannic and opulent of the two, while Barbaresco is considered more elegant and approachable.

By the way, the foods of the Piedmont that are habitually served with mature Barolo and Barbaresco include many plates made with white truffles or white truffle oil, Porcini mushrooms; cheeses like Bra Dura, Fontina, Ribiole, Toma, and truffle infused cheeses. Also game (especially game birds); and beef braised in red wine.

…Two great wines from two great wine producing zones.

Book Review – Matt Kramer’s Making Sense of Italian Wine 2006 – Matt Kramer

By in Books - At a Glance

Matt Kramer’s Making Sense of Italian Wine 2006 – Matt Kramer

This book is one of my favorites. When Matt tells you think about Italy in terms of States and then he breaks it all down by the varietals and what States you can find the varietals; including what varietals make up certain wines and the key wine makers(new style vs old school too)and producer’s. It’s just a great perspective to look and learn Italian Wine.

Special Report – A group of tasty great red wines to hunt for and drink over the next 5 to 6 years. Stock up!

By in 2012 Top Wines

By Ralph Del Rio, Wine Correspondent

There is a certain passion associated with a bottle of wine. A good bottle of wine is the end result of years and years of experimentation and practice.  So, it makes for a good time to celebrate especially if you can find a great deal.

Most of these global wines listed below are great values; they are all under $20 but most importantly drink up to two or three sometimes four times the price. How can that be !?!

These are several of my favorites right now and they are worth the hunt.

Bodegas Mas Alta Black Slate La Vilella Alta 2010 Priorat, Spain

Notes of pencil, blueberry, raspberries, crushed rocks and cut flowers on the nose of this inky/darkly-colored wine. It is intense, it is big and complex  yet supple with nice tannins and a long finish.  

Falesco Merlot IGT Umbria 2010 Merlot  Italy

Fragrant, flowers  and dramatically dark fruit. The wine retains a vivacity. It is lean and lively through to the finish; great juiciness.

Badenhorst  Secateurs  Red Blend  2010 South Africa

Surrounded by black tea, honeyed spice and vanilla bean inflections, the mouthfeel is decisively structured with medium tannins and an inner acidity, finishing  on a soft, citrusy and roasty note.

Tikal Natural Organic Malbec 2010  Argentina

Ripe and firm, with harmonious acidity framing the black fruits, black cherry and briny flavors which trap a subtle but pushing sweetness. With Sandalwood, violets, tobacco notes, it ends with chewy, dusty tannins and good length.

Jim Barry Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2009  Coonawarra, Australia

Concentrated cassis and blackberries on the nose with hints of pencil shavings, cloves and bay leaf. Medium to full bodied, it has a good level of tannins, lively acidity, wild spices with hints of mint. Very mouth filling, with very pure berry flavors, finishing long.

Enjoy!

Sicily used to be known for bulk wine, not anymore…

By in Italian Wine

Sicily used to be known as the Island where bulk wine, blending wine ruled the day. It was basically alot of Catarratto and Trebbiano grapes; and mostly white varieties. The place where Marsala was king …It still is super famous…

With such great land, microclimates, good people and the right approach over the past 20 years; old vines and volume producing vineyards have been ripped out and replaced with more red and international varietals.
Wine trustworthiness has been a long time coming for Sicily. Today Sicily has 22 DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) regions and one DOCG (denominazione di origine e garantita). Some of these accentuate a single grape variety; while others allow blending. All these areas are busy reveling the best grapes of their territory. There are a lot of IGT’s making wine as well which can represent good values.

Today Nero d’ Avola is the island’s second most planted variety after Catarratto.   There are ten native varieties(they account for  about 80% of all the vines), such as Frappato, Inzolia and Perricone and the like; plus non indigenous varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and others.

Sicily is about 6% the size of California. To put some things into perspective; Sicily has nearly 350,000 acres of vines according to official statistics and produces roughly 200,000 gallons of wine. It’s in 3rd place in the amount of vines to wines to California and then Australia….and not by much. But essentially, Sicily is overflowing in wine.

A lot of the changes have come with successful struggles against organized crime and corruption. Yet Sicilian’s know they have a great wine future. Just like Tuscany, where outsiders had to come in and start making awesome wine, it’s happening in Sicily and changes and inspired improvements have happened and it is specifically because of this that Sicilian’s extremely and enormously renewed their interests in the local varieties.

It’s important to note that Sicily was one of the most ancient Greek conquests, eighth century BC and wine was being made way back then and they have the claim in Italy for being the most ancient and in wine that carries some weight.

Given all this relatively new competitive outlook, it sure comes with its share of complications. But for the wine enthusiast it is great news although it brings confusion as to what’s good, really good and not so good.

Here are some noteworthy producers: Palari, Carlo Hauner, Planeta, Tasca D’ Amerita/Regaleali, Feudi Principi di Butera, Di Bartoli(for Marsala), Benanti and Feudo Montoni.

It’s Time to be a Cheese Aficionado!

By in Cheese, Wine and Food Pairings

A lot of us don’t even think twice about going to the local gourmet shop on a Friday evening for complimentary wine tastings or even asking someone for help at the local wine store. It’s time to start thinking the same way about cheese. Time to be a Cheese Aficionado!

Now cheese can get very pricey. So when you are looking at cheeses that can cost upwards of $15 -$20 a pound, you want to make sure that you’re going to like what you’re buying. The only way to know for sure is to taste. It is so worth the journey.

With the massive selection of specialty cheeses available these days; don’t limit yourself to the basic 4 or 5 cheeses (Monterrey Jack, Sharp Cheddar, Swiss etc…) you see prepackaged on the shelves.

Trying a new cheese whenever you visit the cheese shop can help you grow and coach your enjoyment to uncover a delight for cheeses you would certainly miss….and we’re talking intense delight!

In the same way, if you think you are limited to hard cheeses, take a walk on the wild side and try a younger softer cheese. Even if you think you are not a fan of blue cheese? There are a lot of different nuances and flavors. Maybe you’ll find one you like. Not sure about very pungent cheese? Go ahead and ask for a sample.

Believe me, there are so many different types of cheeses from all over the world that you really need to find a cheese expert to help teach you, get an idea what you might like, chart your course; and steer you in the right direction.

I get my Cheeses from a place called Vintage Wine Cellars and Massaro’s in Tampa FL…but Fresh Market, Whole Foods and also Trader Joe’s has some great choices.

Listen, any worthy cheese monger (the guy or gal with that hat and the apron) will be happy to let you sample the stuff and talk to you. Do not be afraid. Just say “Can I try that?” …and don’t forget to pick up a bottle of wine too. Now that’s a whole other story.

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