It’s April…its time to taste the Classic Bordeaux in Barrels for ratings and pricing. It’s called “En Primeur”…What about some thoughts on California and their older wineries…

By in California Wine, French Wine, Tastings, Wine Scores and Reviews

It’s April and that usually means its time to taste the Bordeaux in Barrels. These “En Primeur” tastings is Bordeaux bring on a who’s who in the wine tasting world to rate the future of the vintage and what the effects on the market might be; Granted there is an idea based on previous vintage information, but nevertheless there is always excitement.

The wines focused on and tasted  during “En Primeur’ are usually the classics, the older wineries, the 1855 Classification Growths, the heavy hitters from the left and right banks.

So in honor of Bordeaux I am going to write about and list some thoughts on California and their older wineries…How’s that!?!

As Karen MacNeil’s nicely researched ‘The Wine Bible’ (I totally recommend) puts it…

By the turn of the 20th century nearly 300 grape varieties were being grown in California, providing for its nearly 800 wineries. Worldwide recognition looked pending, especially after helping solve the Pheloxera disease crisis in France by using American rootstock saving the Bordeaux vineyards.

Yes! That actually happened.

But then suddenly on January 16, 1919… the 18th Amendment ushered in the beginning of Prohibition.

The rest is history until California came roaring back in the late sixties and seventies.

Let’s review some of the classic California Wineries, wines and oldest vines.

 

In the late 1800’a and early 1900’s…During this period some of California’s oldest wineries were founded including :

Buena Vista Winery, Gundlach Bundschu, Inglenook Winery, Markham Vineyards and Schramsberg Vineyards. – Great pedigree with abundant value…and then some

 In a way, these wineries should be looked upon, here are some tid-bits.
 
So here’s a nice list of 100 year old wineries….

• Beaulieu Vineyards –Founded in 1900, a great place to visit too

• Beringer – Famous Rhine House completed in 1884; I’d like to add, as part of their line the Knights Valley Cabernet provides such a great consistent value 

• Charles Krug – Founded in 1861 by Charles Krug, owned by Peter Mondavi

• Chateau Montelena – Established in 1882 by Alfred Tubbs.

• Inglenook – This Chateau dates back to 1879

• Nichelini – Founded in 1890 and the same family owns it today

• Schramsberg – Founded in 1862, the present owners purchased the winery in 1968

• Trefethen Family Vineyards – Winery built in 1886, Trefethen begins in 1968

 • Buena Vista Winery – Pioneer Haraszthy founded Buena Vista Winery in 1857 on a site in Sonoma

Check them out, keep them handy…Good wine, good conversation.

Here are also some California vineyards that have some of America’s Oldest Vines along with a blurb or two….

Michael David Winery Ancient Vine Cinsault

Back then these 128-year-old vines were planted, Grover Cleveland was the USA president, and when you needed to get to get around in a hurry you rode a horse and buggy.

Scherrer Old & Matua Vines Zinfandel

A wine that is multi-generational; Fred Scherrer makes it with fruit from vines his father and grandfather planted in the 1970s and 1912, respectively.

Turley Duarte Zinfandel

Using ancient vines of Contra Costa County, this red zin pulls from the Salvador, Evangelho and Mori vineyards (the Mori vineyard spooky story is that it was planted by a pair of gravedigger brothers in the 1940s).

Bedrock Wine Co. Bedrock Heritage Red

The Bedrock Vineyard purportedly has 33 acres of ancient vines date from 1888; as landowner Morgan Twain-Peterson has said, “This vineyard has a long history, and I’m just passing through.”

Ravenswood Old Hill Zinfandel

It has been reported since 1871, that journalists were praising this vineyard; the Pacific Rural Press wrote that its wine was “superior…to any in the state.”
Also, for good measure I thought I’d mention the famous 1976 Reds
from the Paris tasting because they competed against many “En Premeur” wines…These wines have gone on to good fortune and status
The Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 or the Judgment of Paris was a wine competition –Reds:

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973 

Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello 1971 

Heitz Wine Cellars Martha’s Vineyard 1970 

Clos Du Val Winery 1972 

Mayacamas Vineyards 1971   

Freemark Abbey Winery 1969 

As you can see California has some very cool historical vineyards and wines to keep you busy on this kind of subject.

 

 

What is a Cult Wine?…Let’s expand a little on the Cult Wines of Bordeaux and California…

By in California Wine, French Wine, Wine Chatter and Blather, Wine Scores and Reviews

What is a Cult Wine?

A cult wine is essentially an American term used to define a high quality, exceedingly expensive wines that are produced in very small quantities and are highly sought after by collectors. It refers mainly but not exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon wines produced by a group of Napa Valley wineries.

Similarly wines from Bordeaux of extraordinary quality are also hunted and pursued by such accumulators.

The thing is that outstanding cult Napa Valley and Bordeaux wines is that they have this deservedly rich intrigue. These wines are rare and veiled gems and are a lot are true rock stars. For some folks the whole quest is in turning up one of these bottles.

Let’s expand a little on the Cult Wines of Bordeaux and California…
Cult Wines Bordeaux

The cult wines of Bordeaux tend to be left-bank cabernet-based wines that ranked highly in the Classification of 1855. Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild all qualify. Right-bank wines from Pétrus, Château Le Pin, Château Angélus, and Château Cheval Blanc are also highly sought-after. With the exception of Le Pin (which was first produced in 1979, all of these estates have a long history of fine wine production, going back in some cases before the 1700s. The production levels of these wines is generally higher than California cult wines—Haut-Brion, for example, produces 10-12,000 cases annually, Lafite produces just under 30,000, and Petrus produces 6,000. Le Pin would be one of the smallest-producing of the Bordeaux cult wines, at 600-700 cases a year.

Cult Wines California

California cult wines refers to any of the California wines “typically but not exclusively Napa Valley Cabernets” for which collectors, investors and highly enthusiastic consumers will pay very high prices. The emergence of the cult movement coincided with trends in the 1990s towards riper fruit and wines with bigger and more concentrated flavors. The producers of such wines include Araujo Estates, Bryant Family Vineyard, Chateau Montelena, Colgin Cellars, Dalla Valle Vineyards, Grace Family Vineyards, Harlan Estate, Schrader Cellars, Screaming Eagle and Sine Qua Non. All of which have scored 100 point scores from wine critics.

These wines are generally very expensive and are limited production (often fewer than 600 cases per year) and can command several times their “release price” in the secondary market.

Many are flipping and reselling these bottles at a much higher price; sometimes showing up at wine auctions.

Some wine lovers spend years on winery waiting lists in the hopes to have an opportunity to to buy just a few bottles of the Cult Wines. While other side deals with wine shops or similar contacts to purchase Bordeaux futures to get a shot at the wine.

Well let’s set the record straight on Cognac vs Brandy…side by side; There is a huge difference in the Flavor, that much we know…

By in Uncategorized

Over the weekend I got into this interesting and humorous conversation on Cognac.

It was inexactly voiced in a colorful way… that Cognac was really a Spanish wine and that the best Cognac came from Spain. Also that every Brandy is not Cognac and Cognac is different than Brandy. That they are not the same. The French Cognac is different than the Spanish Cognac.  

Classic brands like Marques D’ Misa, Carlos I, Cardenal Mendoza, Gran Duque d’Alba were some of the names rattled off as Cognacs that were preferred to their French counterparts Napoleon, Hennessy and Remy Martin.

Well let’s set the record straight on Cognac and Brandy…Cognac and Brandy side by side, there is a huge difference in the flavor, that much we know.

Drum Roll Please…

All Cognacs come from France, like all Champagne comes from France. It’s a distilled liquor made from grapes. All Brandys come from everyplace else

Cognac is simply brandy distilled from wine produced in certain regions of France. Legally, in France, it has to be produced in those regions, and aged for a longer period of time, to be called Cognac. So Cognac is, technically speaking, a type of brandy. That means it’s made by distilling wine, and then aging the resulting spirit (the French call it eau de vie) in wood barrels.

Spanish brandy is properly called Brandy de Jerez and, like the French brandies, can be produced only in a designated region. Brandy de Jerez comes from around the Andalucian city of Jerez, the same place sherry is made.

In fact, the brandy is aged in sherry casks, using the same solera system, the carefully orchestrated process involving successive barrels in which younger brandies are added to older ones as they age. The younger brandy takes on characteristics of the more mature spirit, and the older wine retains a freshness and liveliness.

One of the main differences of Brandy to Cognac is the aging in wood. Where Cognac requires it, Brandy does not. Along these lines some Brandies contain added coloring to simulate the wood aging.

Further, Cognac is governed by strict laws in France… Cognac has long been considered an aristocratic drink and its name is not only well earned but fiercely guarded that is why there is this aura about it.

Brandy is free to be more loose in its methods the world over…We then can consider tradition, production methods, and accountability based on tradition and expectations.

French Law says, a distilled spirit may carry the name Cognac, only if the production methods for the distilled spirit meets the defined regional legal requirements. The restrictions of the ancient law require the wine to be made of 90% Ugni Blanc, FoIt is this wine that eventually is very cautiously distilled into Cognac. The process involves the careful double distillation in copper, and two years of aging in French Oak .

In fact, many Cognac houses will brag about pulling their supply of grapes from very sought-after zones. The terrior of France is unique unto itself along with its appellations.

But remember…This is true for any wine grape producing region and it is an important consideration to take for these respected spirits.

 In the case of Jerez… the great vineyard terroirs have been identified for thousands of years:

Vines arrived in the south of Spain in 1100 BC with the Phoenicians, and later Columella spotted the good chalky (albariza) and bad (sandy) terroirs in Jerez. Which is no slouch!

And that’s a long time before the French Grands Crus!!!

The brandy de Jerez; if it ages at least three years, it’s called solera reserva. If it ages 10 years or longer, it’s called solera gran reserva

Most brandy de Jerez is made with the neutral airen grape, which is said to be the most-planted wine grape in the world. Sometimes a little bit of Pedro Ximenez grape is added, lending sweetness and intensity.

The gran reservas have concentrated flavors of raisin and burnt caramel and hints of sherry cask. Some gran reservas even use the Palomino grape that sherry is made from. The result was a brighter, nuttier and more complex brandy.

I’ll go on the limb and say that the Spanish brandies are deep, rich, lush and more immediately likable. They are a fascinating diversion from the legendary French brandies such as Cognac and even the Armagnac of Gascony in Southwest France and the Calvados from the French region of Lower Normandy.

A good answer to explain the flavor of Cognac is hot fruit cake!

Hmmm… and the USA fruitcake is not a very positive description. Yet it’s a very concentrated stewed toasted fruit. Incredible wood flavors. Really powerful!

By the way…Cognac master blenders often use the word “rancio” to describe a flavor present in many of the oldest and most expensive cognac blends. But this word, which shares its roots with nasty the less-than-appetizing “rancid”, so it lacks an exact translation.

 

 

 

 

Let’s start by saying that in Bordeaux, Practically all Wines are Blended. Many do not Consider the Fact and would be Surprised…

By in Argentina Wine, California Wine, Chile Wines, French Wine, Wine Chatter and Blather

There are many great books and websites with great research and information, but a lot of people ask me about Bordeaux and what makes it so well-regarded while comparing to Napa Valley wines. I just hosted a varied, full-on Bordeaux tasting(which I’ll cover on a later date) and there was a lot of blather abound. So here are some thoughts on it.

Let’s start by saying that in Bordeaux, practically all wines are blended. Those who know…know that. Many do not and would be surprised.


Only a few producers make single-variety or varietal wines, which is a lot different than many in Napa Valley, California.


So the French labels actually mask that fact. There’s no naming of the varietals on the labels; but for a few…

So let’s talk a little French Bordeaux…

 
The classic blend consists of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc, with small embellishments of Petit Verdot and Malbec and very occasionally Carmenere. Malbec has become the signature grape of Argentina and Carmenere is becoming the signature grape of Chile…but that’s another story.

Merlot is favored on the right bank of the Gironde River system (the main river that divides both sides of Bordeaux), and Cabernet Sauvignon on the left, though Merlot plantings have been increasing on the left bank over the past twenty years. It’s hard to tell what effect that will have.


Bordeaux wines are done in is a highly controlled process, with prevalent use of stainless steel vats for fermentation, cooling devices, mechanisms, procedures and a lot of hygienic self-control and restraint. Let’s face it. This where the whole shebang sort of comes from… more or less.


Just so you know in the early 1950’s, adding sugar became legal in Bordeaux. The sugar is not to sweeten the wine. It is to help it along so it ripens to a better potential along with the alcohol. The use of sugar (chaptalization) is common in Bordeaux, except in the warmest of years, and on the left bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon leads the way and ripens well ahead of the Merlot.

Also, the left bank is the place where the original ‘Classified Growths’ are…so they want to optimize the area, to say the least.



Let’s get to the wine!


Once the producer decides the wine has aged for the right amount of time, the selection begins for the right blend for the vintage. This is released as the château’s grand vin. Sometimes there is leftovers from the blending and this may be released as a second-wine (or in even a third-wine). It’s not inferior wine. Some are very expensive which can be superior to a lot of great wines. Some get so popular that they have a conundrum as to whether they need to put aside for the second wine.


…Well after the blending, the wine will be bottled, and will then typically goes through a further ageing process before being released.

 
In Bordeaux the oenologists and their science of winemaking plays a huge role. Many of these folks work as consultants to different châteaux and carry a whole lot of weight these days in major decisions regarding the wine. The Chateaux contract these wine scientists/wine process experts/visionaries to help them make the best wine they can.


Some of the most famous oenologists are Stéphane Derenoncourt, Emile Peynaud, Jacques Boissenot, Pascal Chantonnet, Olivier Dauga, Denis Dubourdieu, Jean-Philippe Fort, and Michel Rolland.


Likewise, In Bordeaux, hand picking grapes is now common among the more prestigious châteaux. Hand- picking is the traditional way. But while hand-picking is the main way of doing things, some classified châteaux still want to harvest by machine.

Here’s the thing on hand picking grapes in Bordeaux…The delicate and careful process of gathering by hand is still the best way to secure a maximum quality harvest ….The one problem with manual harvesting is the sheer size of vineyards in Bordeaux. 

On the other hand; mechanical harvesting also has a big benefit. It is very flexible: it makes possible harvesting at night, which is very desirable and effective during hot weather ….

 
What is also important is that the flatter geography of Bordeaux also allows for mechanical harvesting, it is not like the Rhone where the steep slopes of wine-producing areas such as Côte-Rôtie makes machine harvesting practically impossible.

 
It goes without saying that Quality and Profit are always very significant factors on all of this. 

The other big decision these days while on the subject of the blended wines of Bordeaux is that there has been this rise in the use of ‘green harvesting’, where unripe bunches are cut off in the summer in order to be this conduit for more of the plant’s strength to the remaining bunches.

‘Green Harvesting’ is really controversial and some big wine making names such as Jean Gautreau of Château Sociando-Mallet, Gonzague Lurton of Château Durfort-Vivens and Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, who assert that the remaining berries just get fleshier and grow bigger and are not better. Their camp basically says; It may be a cheaper way of harvesting but will the quality of the blended wines of Bordeaux suffer.

Bordeaux is definitely not the only wine area with blended wines and certainly not the only area with process challenges. Nevertheless, it is interesting to note that all these things mentioned previously occur in the place where arguably the world’s greatest blended wine is located.  


By the way did you know Bordeaux is a blended wine?  J/K.

 

 

Tampa is launching a new wine association. …Tampa Bay Wine Alliance – TBWA Wow!!!

By in Bistros Eateries & Cheese, Tastings, Wine and Food Pairings, Wine Chatter and Blather

Tampa is launching a new wine association. …Tampa Bay Wine Alliance  – TBWA

www.tampabaywinealliance.com

The website is evolving and will have the events and the on-goings. So it’s a good App for the smartphone to know the events. It’s also going to have a members only area as the site progresses further.

It is a not-for-profit corporation dedicated to supporting the growing wine culture of the Tampa Bay region.

It has a nominal membership of $52 a year. It provides you 6 tasting events and you become a ‘Founding Member’ which for sure will have goodies involved.

It has the backing of some of the major restaurants in the area including Bern’s, Mise en Place and Charley’s Steakhouse to name some…and it will have a lot more in the tank for all kinds of wine lovers. Beginners to Aficionados.

The mission is to enhance the knowledge and appreciation of wine and wine service by promoting wine education and enjoyment throughout the Greater Tampa Bay area.

If you are a wine enthusiast, the goal of the alliance is to help you deepen your understanding through online content and tasting opportunities.

If you are involved with wine through the service industry, the organization will provide you with educational opportunities to increase your ability to serve customers and ultimately increase your earning potential.

If you are a “wine professional”, the goal is to support your efforts to be a leader in the industry, acquire professional certifications, and network with your peers.

Whatever your level of interest in wine, the alliance strive to develop a sense of community that will make the Tampa Bay area one of the top regions for wine knowledge and appreciation in the entire country. We hope you’ll support the efforts! Sounds ideal! By the way, my hat is ‘in’ on this.

Sign up today. Don’t miss out on this cool happening!

Is terroir still central to winemaking? Doesn’t it seem that the New World wines lower its significance…

By in Australian Wine, California Wine, French Wine, Wine Chatter and Blather

Is terroir still central to winemaking?  Doesn’t it seem that New World wines and new world winemakers on the face of it give a lower profile to its significance? Is that really happening?

A lot of wine drinkers say terroir and the ‘sense of place’ is the most important necessity in the wines they most enjoy drinking.

Why is that?

The crux of the issue is that there’s this acceptance that establishing the appearance of prestige for a wine and those who drink it is very important… and to the French this is no alien concept. They are so very good at this

The French market prestige very successfully, particularly in Bordeaux and Burgundy which has exaggeratedly increased the value of the wine in those areas; it’s almost guaranteed that with every vintage there’s recognition that the wines constantly have a place at the uppermost of the wine industry.

In roughly all cases, it practically doesn’t matter what chateau or domaine produced the wine, as the brand is so powerfully tied to the region.

But let’s be clear… the history of accomplishment that has permitted this occurrence to happen, has taken a lot of time and a lot of money and Bordeaux and Burgundy has some of the worlds very best wines.

But can the same tactic be used effectively in the new world?

Napa Valley has as near to a terroir-like approach. Does it matter?

…and yes Napa Valley has established an almost unusual success among wine drinkers, especially with cult cabs and the spotlight on certain AVA’s… But has this truly furthered the region in total?

It’s not so easy to pinpoint because of the regions and sub-regions.

A lot of the new world areas are so much more infinite than their equivalents in the old world. So there will be some degree of comparison. But sometimes not. Let’s take the Barossa Valley of Australia as an example; there are some thirty different soil types while in to contrast in Bordeaux France there are about six.

So how much specificity can one find with the amazing amount of variableness. Probably not very much all the time.

Does modern wine making in new world vineyards make the perception of terroir irrelevant?

Right now the many regions and sub-regions of the new world are virtually unknown outside the local community. It’s changing but not at an accelerated pace. That’s where marketing can come into play and poses a conundrum.

Considering prestige of areas like Bordeaux and Burgundy; the effect is that new world wine makers are pushing the regions that are known and that leads to the new world winemakers knowing that they can do better by leveraging the areas that are known. This leads to more and more oversimplification which is without question the opposite of what terroir is really all about.

What’s really happening is that as more new world producers start to take an interest in terroir, the scientists are staying on top of it and are becoming more concerned in defining terroir and describing its effects on wines. Because there is no denying that where grapes are grown impart unique characteristics into those grapes, which are singular to their region of the world.

 

Making “White Wine is a Beautiful Thing and knowing the ‘Key Steps’ goes a long way!

By in California Wine, French Wine, Wine Chatter and Blather

Springtime is here!

We all know making Red Wines have a process to go through… White Wines have a process they go through as well and it’s basically straight forward. There very little that can be considered ‘really’ right or wrong. The thing is you ask 10 different wine makers on something you might get 10 different answers! So as you go along try to find out ‘why’ you do something…not only just ‘what’ to do.

So let’s talk about what it takes to make White wines once they go from the vineyard to the actual wine making process…

After Harvesting the grapes, Crushing and De-stemming the grapes, Cold soaking them and Pressing the juice. There are some key steps that are the important to making white wine. 

Ok, here we go with the ‘key steps’…

Key Step 1:  Alcoholic Fermentation

This critical process the converting of the sugars into alcohol. Essential! Fermentation requires the action of yeasts in order to turn the sugars into alcohol. Now these yeasts can be the natural yeasts from the vineyard, or specially selected, cultured yeasts. The cultured yeasts are much easier to control and they ensure guarantee a more consistent fermentation. The natural yeasts, on the other hard, ensure a truer manifestation of the vineyard’s terroir, but can be a lot less reliable and more challenging and sluggish. So each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Also Note…the fermentation vessel used is a very big decision. For example; there’s oak, stainless steel or the use of another inert vessel.
Because of its strong attraction with oak, Chardonnay is often fermented in small oak barrels to control the oak influence. But not always…definitely not always. Oak can reflect vanilla, coconut, caramel, spices, toast and all kinds of nuances and flavors.

It’s also good to know that aromatic grapes such as Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc are typically fermented in stainless steel or other inactive vessels to preserve their vibrant aromas and flavors.

Also, fermentation temperature also impacts the wine.

Overall, white wines are typically fermented at cooler temperatures than red. The cooler the temperature the more well-preserved the primary fruit aromas and flavors. Warmer temperatures make for a more ‘structured’ wine.

Usually when the yeasts have converted all the sugars to alcohol the fermentation is over, you essentially have a dry wine… But, if the intended style off dry or medium sweet, the winemaker will stop the fermentation before all the sugars have been converted.., this leaves the desired amount of residual sugar. You see that in the Loire, France whites wines for example.

Key step 2: Malolactic Fermentation (sometimes known as MLF)

After the alcoholic fermentation.. some white wines go through a process called ‘malolactic fermentation’. It’s a re-stirring! So technically this is not a true fermentation it’s really a conversion of any remaining ‘tart’ malic acid (think green apples) in the wine to the softer lactic acid (think milk).

Again, Chardonnay is one of the main wines to undergo full or partial malolactic fermentation. Have you ever noticed that many Chardonnay wines have a buttery or creamy note? Well, pretty much due to this to this process. It’s so good with Seafood and Shellfish! 

Key Step 3: Lees Ageing

When all the fermentation is over, the new wine is resting on all the dead yeast cells, this is called called ‘lees’. The big or heavy lees are usually racked (drained off) off fairly quickly. But many winemakers choose to leave the new wine on the remaining ‘fine lees’ for a period of time… now it can be anything from a few weeks to several months and sometimes even years. The winemakers do this because ageing on the lees adds texture, palate weight and complexity to the wine. It also helps keep the wine fresh while waiting to be bottled.

During this time, some winemakers, again a lot of the time with Chardonnay, they do what is called ’battonnage’ – which is simply the stirring of these ‘lees’ around, to give an even more creamy texture to the wine.

***Now Blending can happen if desired…and this is a critical in achieving the final desired style.

Wines made from a mix of different grape varieties are probably what’s thought of when we think of first think of blends.

But varietal wines are very often blends too…

For example; blends from different vineyards or blends of wines from different vats that were treated differently during winemaking or maturation. you see blending enables the winemaker to achieve smoothness and consistency in a wine.

Key Step 4: The Finishing of the wine…which has it’s own situations, which I’ll keep to the very basic statement.

Before bottling, wines can be clarified. This is to ensure that the wine is stable and that’s it’s own involved process in itself…

For example wines with residual sugar really need to be sterile filtrated to make sure that there is not even one little yeast cell still remaining that could start a re-fermentation in the bottle. That’s would suck and would put a major damper on things, so you can imagine…

Well there you go…

Those are the Key steps in making white wine that make all the difference in the world.

In breaking it out like this you can better understand what it takes to make the whites which often seems like magic!

Voila! There you go!

 
 
 
 
 
 

Brazil the Fifth Largest Country in the World does have Vineyards!!! Brazilian wine is on the uptick!…and a little about the Tannat grape!

By in Brazil Wine, Wine Chatter and Blather

Tannat is normally found in the Basque-influenced regions of France; grown in South West France in the Madiran AOC. But that’s not the only place where it’s has an impact. It’s Brazil!

Tannat is a big grape. It’s tasty…

The Tannat wine is not only tasty its is notable for its very high firm tannin levels and it is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc…..you get dark red fruit, raspberry aromas and it has the ability to age well and works well with a cut of steak and grilled meats

Tannat is not only found in France and Brazil; it is also grown places like Australia, Argentina, Peru, Uruguay, Bolivia, Italy’s Puglia and other interesting warmer climate areas like Virginia, USA!

Let’s talk a little about Brazil…

Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world and it does have vineyards, and it does create wine, with about 1,100 wineries fermenting the juice of grapes which stereotypically come from family-owned farms with an average of about five acres each.

Now why is Brazil big news these days?

Brazil is going to be the host of the 2016 Summer Olympic Games and recently the it hosted the soccer’s high profile World Cup!

Essentially, Brazil is in the spotlight like never before. There is a probability that there will be a demand for all things Brazilian – so that surely means wine as well!

Brazil is beginning to export wines that are competing for shelf space in the South America section at our neighborhood wine stores such as Whole Foods and restaurants such as Season’s 52.

So, its fair to say that Brazilian wine is on the uptick. Over the last several years there’s been plenty of growth. While Brazil has a moderately large quantity of vineyards, a big portion of them produce table grapes intended for eating while they are fresh, as opposed to grapes grown for wine production, juice production, or for drying into raisins.

So, in essence only some vineyards produce Brazilian wine…

The thing is that Brazil is close to the equator…traditional rules of thumb typecasts most of the Brazil as  incompatible for viticulture, due to the abundant heat and humidity. But most of the wine production of Brazil is focused in the south of the country, away from the equator, in the state of Rio Grande do Sul, near the 29th parallel south, which is neighboring to Uruguay and Argentina.

In the area near the 29th parallel south there are alot of of the vineyards. Also the vineyards are located in cooler high and hilly sites, mostly in the Serra Gaúcha region.

It’s interesting to note that while better quality wines (called vinho fino) are produced from the European grapevine; a lot of the vines produced in Brazil are from American or Hybrids. They grow easier; the American and Hybrid rootstocks withstand the climate and growing conditions.

To get an idea of the annual temperatures in Brazil… wine regions range from 12C,54F to 22C,72F and get about 70 inches of rain per year! Yes, you heard right!

Likewise, Brazil is South America’s largest economy and it has seen annual wine business triple over the past 10 years but According to FoodBev.com, 2011 and 2012, growth rates slowed dramatically, due to the economy .

The news is the market is likely to remain challenging in the short-term but there are some promising developments such as much better import and export detail; so the long-term outlook is positive.

So we are likely to see more Brazilian wines!

Case in point; Seasons 52 Restaurant chain is carrying two Brazilian wines the Miolo Chardonnay and Perini Macaw Tannat that are part of the selected wines featured for Flights and Flatbreads. Which is a great part of their menu, by the way…


Just so you know; besides the Tannat grape; Here is a list of some Brazilian wineries and grape varietals to look out for :

Wineries: Salton, Pizzato,  Perini,  Miolo,  Lidio Carraro,  Aurora Cellars,  Vinícola, Aurora  and the Vale Wine Company

Grape Varietals: Tannat,  Cabernet Sauvignon, Seyval Blanc,  Touriga Nacional,  Aurora, Ancellotta and Merlot

By all means give them a try and Cheers! Especially for the Olympics and the World Cup!

 

 

When it is done right, I enjoy a Texas style Brisket, especially with a a California Old Vine Zinfandel! Read how now!

By in BBQ and Wine, California Wine, Wine and Food Pairings

There’s nothing I enjoy more than a California Old Vine Zinfandel and BBQ. I enjoy a Texas style Brisket, especially. In a Zin you get certain characteristic that play off well with Brisket.

Zinfandel is ripe and rich, sometimes even port-like Blackberry; Ripe Raspberry and Plum. Plenty of Alcohol, Generally Zins ripen well, with plenty of sugar, causing ample of alcohol that you can often smell the “heat” in the wine’s bouquet. There is Spice/pepper, Tobacco leaf and hints of Cedar and those ripe tannins.

Let’s get into the Brisket…

Wikipedia defines Brisket as follows:

…a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of beef or veal. The beef brisket is one of the nine beef primal cuts, though the precise definition of the cut differs internationally. The brisket muscles include the superficial and deep pectorals. As cattle do not have collar bones, these muscles support about 60% of the body weight of standing/moving cattle. This requires a significant amount of connective tissue, so the resulting meat must be cooked correctly to tenderize the connective tissue

FYI – The Brisket is below the Chuck and above the Shank part of the steer…

I enjoy cooking brisket. When it is done right it is a very enjoyable piece of meat. One thing I have always liked to do is cook hot and fast. I have had good success with getting the meat tender however is the thing I hunger after almost as much is that thick, crispy black bark on the outside.

Occasionally, I sometimes I go tropical and wrap it in ‘Banana Leaves’ and that thickens the crust to a chewy consistency that is pretty unique especially with a dash a pineapple but that’s a metro approach to things…it rocks! It’s the Florida thing, you know…

But essentially, I’ve been applying mustard to the meat before my rub and getting a real nice bark that way. By the way, EVOO and mustard don’t add much flavor; the mustard works better for me. I use fruit juice, beer, cider, garlic mop….

Also lately, I apply a paprika too (hot because of the smoke effect) and customize a chili rub along with some EVOO and the mustard, which I like these days as well.

…Just so you know you will still get bark with just the rub if you cook low and slow.

I don’t recommend foil. Leave that off all together. But keep it handy just in case… Generally, wrapping in foil will steam the outside creating a soft bark or crust. Foil is really to prevent burning…

In the smoker I keep a Pizza stone handy. Sometimes I replace the water pan with a pizza stone. I keep the temperature low and cook slow. Be aware with the Pizza stone the chances are it will cook a little bit faster. The brisket needs to be cooked fat side up.

It’s important to keep an eye on things or the crisping is going along. I plan to take it off after 10-11 hours or 190 degrees internal temperature to 203 degrees. It is not easy to get it to that temperature cooking at only 205-240. So you need to cook at 275 – 285 degrees or a little higher if you can without burning the meat… By cooking like this you will get good bark on it as well.  But at the higher temperature the total cooking time should be 6-7 hours. So keep an eye on it.

Yet there is a charred flavor that can only be obtained on an open flame. Which is the only drawback I think, of a smoker. It’s a flavor that could be overlooked. So to crisp and get the charred flavor again it is gotten by cooking meat slow, directly over an open flame. When the fat from the meat drips on the hot coals it causes the coals to flame up. And the fire from the flame chars the fat on the meat; which often requires you to move the meat around.  It’s a lot of work but you get that open pit flavor.

Enjoy and Cheers!

 

 

 

The “Golden Triangle” of Pomerol…Arguably the Best Wines in the World…

By in French Wine, Tastings, Wine Scores and Reviews

The “Golden Triangle” of Pomerol a triangle shaped cluster of vineyards in a commune in the Gironde department in Aquitaine region in southwestern France. It is located near Bordeaux.

It comprises arguably the best wines in the world… Great Bordeaux!

Pomerol has come a long way in the past fifty years or so, and yet it also remains markedly different from the other famous Bordeaux communes. It has with no classification system yet and is pieced together with small, regularly family-owned vineyards, scattered with farmhouses realistically not châteaux (many liken Pomerol to Burgundy rather than Bordeaux); the right banked Pomerol does not resemble the opulence of the Bordeaux left bank. Curiously, Pomerol has never been written about with the same admiration repeatedly publicized to the châteaux of Pauillac, St Julien, Margaux or St.Emillon;  But obviously it should.
 
The open flat land of Pomerol not really distinct. Yet with endless acres of vines that are emaciated in the winter and fertile in the summer. These plains have narrow roads, ditches and farmhouses which contain hills with plateaus and uplands where the soils were deposited as sediments by water, ice and wind.

Subsequently, formed by erosion; these hills are made up of two thirds sandy and gravely soil and one third clay and gravely soil. It is the only wine producing region in the world with a large degree of blue clay in its soils.

After the famous 1982 vintage, Pomerol has respectfully received a lot more attention. That was the year that prices began to soar for wines like Petrus and Lafleur.

This “Golden Triangle” of Pomerol encompasses the best chateaux, including: Petit village, Le Pin, Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, l’Evangile, Pétrus, Lafleur, Le Gay, La Croix de Gay , Clos l’Eglise, Chateau Cabanne, Trotanoy and finally the top of Nenin”. These have consistently been producing the best wines in the Pomerol commune. Try one if you can.

The rest of Pomerol is sandy soil like most of Bordeaux, where it is usually more difficult for growers to find a distinctiveness or individuality for their wines.

Understandably, there are numerous outstanding Pomerol wines. Many are terroir driven some are a combination of advanced technology with good marketing creating a winning formula (purely ‘technique’ driven). Really great wine nevertheless.

Some of the ones I enjoy regularly are Chateau de Sales, Chateau Ferrand, Chateau La Pointe and Clos Rene.

Hence, the transformation of the “Golden Triangle” wines come from the dynamics and physical history of the terrain and the clear-cut style of wine making.

Pomerol wines consistently are fleshy with an easy drinking quality and many display this quality when young, there are others which require a huge amount of patience and command respect for their ability to age in bottle, transforming into something other-worldly over many unfathomable decades. Such wines have need of high honor and consideration during this modern age of instant gratification.

Sometimes you find only the most wealthy collectors might afford the price tag of a age worthy ‘Golden Triangle’ Pomerol(due to scarcity and limited production)…

But the allure of an easy drinking, fleshy, young Pomerols… ironically command the attention of not only the wealthy but a whole lot of wine lovers through and through. Certainly, nothing wrong with that!
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