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My day with Australian Barrossa and some fine tasty sausages
I was having something called a Metty sausage that I bought with some kangaroo burgers(which I bought in a specialty market) that I haven’t tried yet. The Metty sausage is full of meat – not fatty. almost none it seems!… and lots of flavor, smokey bacon, tangy brandy…
I paired it with The Barossa Peter Lehman 2007, Penfolds Bin 28 2007. Both wines which I like a lot; year in and year out.
All this made me reflect…
I think Syrah from the Barrossa are exceptional and diverse and often provide great value. In the early 2000’s Australian Barrossa was a revelation. Big black fruit jammy opulent wines, rich with pepper and smoke, which I like. But later in the decade became a little homogeneous from folks cashing in on the craze of this wine hitting its stride. But now appears to be back on track.
To dig a little deeper…Syrah style changes depending on the climate, region and of course the winemaker. The aromas and flavors from most Syrah include pepper, blackberry and leather or smoke. Australian Shiraz and Central or Southern California Syrah are usually more thick in fruit flavors, some quite jammy even chewy and in the warm environments leads to riper fruit. On the other hand, in France the Northern Rhone style of Syrah classically shows more pepper and leather notes, with a lot less upfront fruit. The other place that makes a knockout Syrah is Washington state .
Getting back to the Barrossa, I think one of the prominent reasons for it being one of the world’s best wine regions is it’s home to some of the oldest vineyards in the world and with this history, and the soil that is low in fertility, which makes for intense wine, and the age of these vines bring a lot to the table.
The region is renowned for its Shiraz, but the Barossa is much more than Shiraz. Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mataro (also known as Mourvedre), Merlot and also Semillon are in ample supply and the wine styles include the well-known GSM Rhone style blends. They are marketed as such!
A lot to ponder, especially while having a snack of sausages…and now for that kangaroo!
Tuscany wines are the great food wine
In a country with about 1500 different indigenous grape varieties, Tuscany won’t present the sheer varietal diversity of Campania, Piedmont, Sardinia or Veneto; yet it gives back in a major way with the deliciousness, the nuances and what seems to be a measureless number of choices in wines.
For instance, In Tuscany, the ‘Chianti Classico’ appellation was created only in 1966. It was created because the heart of the area produced the better wines(hence the word Classico). Yet there are seven surrounding subzones that produce fantastic Chianti.
In 1966 the Tuscan Government also made the recipe of Chianti into law which had to contain 50 to 80% Sangiovese, 10 to 30% Canaiolo Nero, and Malvasia and Trebbiano at 10 to 30%. Over time this did not sit to well with some winemakers which led to the birth of the Super Tuscan wines which blend in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah with the Sangiovese grape. Eventually room was officially made for these wines on the Tuscan stage because these Tuscan wines are among the greatest. Yet there is still plenty of debate. Because now people are asking… What really is a Super Tuscan? What really is a Chianti Classico? In fact it’s in Maremma an immense area bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea is where many Tuscan producers started blending in the late sixties and early seventies making great wine and forcing classification changes. It’s on going. Try a producer like Antinori and Castelli Di Bossi.
Which leads us to Brunello di Montalcino; Brunello is a wine that’s been made in Montalcino since the early 14th century and the feelings there were that its wines were above all others in Tuscany. The wine which is made from 100% Sangiovese that is darker, richer and more powerful than the Sangiovese in Chianti region and can age for decades. It’s a little more expensive that Chianti as well. During meals the Brunello is usually the focus. On the other hand, the simpler Rosso di Montalcino(Rosso meaning red wine) appellation was carved out Montalcino only recently in 1983 to allow declassified lots to make a tasty alternative to the Brunello. These ‘Baby Brunellos’ are great for their early drinkability and more affordable. Try Antinori, Caparzo and Poggio Antico
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ( not to be confused with Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo) is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape and the town was already in existence way back in the 3rd Century BC. In this area of southern Tuscany the wine is aged a minimum of 2 years with an additional year for Riserva.
Spreadable Cheese and Good Wine
There are some places in town such as Datz on Macdill , Bin 27 and Mise en Plas on Kennedy that can fix you up an excellent tray of exotic cheeses and the lot. Those establishments are good place to experiment with wine and cheese in a setting outside the home. Sometimes that’s all you need. A couple of bottles of wine and a couple of cheese platters are great for sharing and very filling.
It is totally in good taste to ask your server to help you select. Even if they don’t know that much about the cheeses, they should be able to distinguish for you whether it’s a fresh cheese, soft white cheese, semi-soft cheese, hard cheese or blue cheese. That’s where the fun begins.
A semi-white cheese like Camembert will have a creamy interior with a mushroomy taste and melds well with several wines like a Chardonnay(Burgundy or California) or a Cabernet Sauvignon(Bordeaux or California) even California Zinfandel. How about Spanish Tempranillo! A Brie may yield similar flavor notes. Feeling frisky? A hard cheese like Cheddar would be a great partner with the same wines. It’s great to experiment and pay attention. It’ll just make you say “sheesh that’s cheese!” it tastes darn good and the flavors can be out of left field.
Your local Publix has a spreadable cheese made in France that apparently went through almost a year of back and forward taste testings to get it right for the American market. So you can imagine there was a lot of compromise and debate on what’s good and not. French cheese is sometimes hard to get over here in the states for the masses to enjoy. It’s called Creme de Saint Agur. Check it out and try it with some grapes, figs or blackberry jam. Glop in the bread and crackers! It’s a fine place to start if you want to jump in with both feet in a general way.
Oregon Pinot Noir with seafood a great match
Book Review – Hip Tastes 2007 – Courtney Cochran
Bordeaux Wines, Tasting Notes and Scores
Now that the summer of 2010 is in full gear; it’s a good time to look back at the Spring and some of those Bordeaux wines and how they fared at the tastings over the past few months. Whether it was the Ringling Museum tasting in Sarasota in January, the Tampa’s Einstein on Wine in February, Tarpon Springs B-21 Bordeaux tasting in April or May’s Bern’s Steakhouse Annual Tampa tasting to name some of the many good ones. Bordeaux was on everybody’s lips.
Many 2004’s and 2005’s Right Bank Bordeaux wines were being served and some oldies as well to talk about. It seems the 2004’s are being served not only because there are still many out in the marketplace but they are drinking very well now along with an ability to cellar them for another eight or ten years.
Also, the 2005 vintage was so great that there were just tons of values that were plain outstanding, that over performed and come within reach of the Grand Cru’s in quality, flavors and aging.
Here are some relevant tasting notes and commenting from some of those tastings:
2004 Pontet Canet – St Emillon: rich big dense sweet tobacco currants and oak, impressive.-‘5L’
2004 Cannon La Gaffelierre – St. Emillon: Easy on attack but deep with Caramel notes, good nose.’3L’
2004 La Gaffeliere – St. Emillon: Elegant Style not overpowering, attractive texture.-‘3SV’
2004 Clos Fouret – St Emillon: Dark ripe and succulent, good oak, round and coated in vanilla. ‘4’
2004 Lynch Bages – Pauillac: rich eucalyptus and black fruit flavors, pencil lead, good depth overlays god tannins.-‘3V’
2004 Belle Vue- Haut Medoc: Excellent silky tannins with really good fruit, lush tobacco and cedar box, spice.- ‘4SV’
2004 Chateau Pavie Macquin- St.Emillon: firm rich deep black currants, nice touch of class.-‘4L’
2005 Angelus – St. Emillon: fleshy and rich, black fruits, roasted flavors, luscious in scent and texture.- ‘5L’
2005 Domaine de Chavelier Rouge – Pessac Leognan: deep spicy tobacco, cedar, good nose and black fruits.-‘5LV’
2004 Martinat Epicurea – Cotes de Bourg: Lush and velvet concentrated and complex, cherries, good body and admirable.- ‘4SV’
2005 La Rouselle – Fronsac: Smooth with nice textured tannins nicely refined solid wine. – ‘4SV’
2005 Chateau Plince – Pomerol: attractive and easy going, truffles, not sensuous but enjoyable.’2′
2005 Pauillac de Latour – Pauillac: Latour’s 3rd wine a great value for and expensive broad plummy style.-‘4LSV’
2005 Chateau Batailley – Pauillac: Plums galore and black fruits, layered and supple.-‘5LV’
2006 Chateau Montviel – Pomerol: rich with a lot of minerality, vaguely interesting.-‘2’
2000 Chasse Spleen – Moulis: very dark fruits super flavors, leathery seductive lingering opulence found in 2nd or 3rd growths.-‘5SLV’
1999 Chateau Ferriere – Margaux: Beautiful fragrance and charming and silky wine that is ready to enjoy.-‘4LV’
A lot of these wines are delicious, available and make a great way to buy wines that one can enjoy today and for years to come. Seek out the ones that fit the budget and serve them with your favorite Steak, BBQ Ribs, Lamb or Pork dinner and please don’t forget those cheeses such as Camembert de Normandie, Maytag Blue and a good hard Cheddar!
WINE CORRESPONDENT 5 POINT SCALE: 5 – GREAT, 4– GOOD, 3– AVERAGE, 2-QUESTIONABLE
1-STAY AWAY, S-SLEEPER WINE, V- EXCELLENT VALUE FOR THE PRICE, L- LAVISH, E- EVERYDAY WINE
Toasted Pheasant, a nice little Tampa French Bistro…(Unfortunately this restaurant closed its doors in 2012)
There is a cork fee of $15 if you bring your own wine bottle. It is very worth it. Bring a nice French Chardonnay from Beaune and Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux. If you can’t bring those, a value Bordeaux , Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon and Unoaked Value Chardonnay will work(or just stick to their wine offerings for a good match). Why do you ask? because you will be able to match up the foods. They offer up small plate dishes that allow you to eat several items.
Furthermore, it is one of the only places in Tampa that you can take in a French inspired meal with a bottle of smashing wine in a setting where you can be totally comfortable and kids are welcome too! The staff is very friendly and eager to please. Let’s hope that place like this can thrive and improve and not get complaisant.
You can join them for Sunday brunches and cooking classes on the First and Third Monday of Every Month that includes a live demonstration in their dining room by Chef Peter. On some Saturday afternoons there are hands on classes in the kitchen. This week on Thursday, July 22nd, there is a 4 course wine dinner and on August 13th and 14th is a ‘Gone Wild’ weekend.
Toasted Pheasant is located in the heart of Carrollwood, immediately south of Ehrlich Road. 14445 N. Dale Mabry Highway. Tampa, Florida 33618 Telephone: 813-265-6700 www.toastedpheasant.com
Great 2005 Bordeaux still available, a Fantastic Vintage – A Special Report by Ralph Del Rio Wine Correspondent
Bordeaux remains the point of reference for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The styles range from the firmer styles of Pauillac and St.-Estephe to luxuriance and richness of a Pomerol or St.- Emilion; the sweet perfume of Margaux or the tobacco bouquet of Graves.
The 2005 Bordeaux’s are a fantastic vintage often compared to the 2000, the 1982 and 1961 as the benchmark years. Those were the years that the terroir; the combination of climate, sun and soil was practically perfect for superior wine with aging potential. Depending on the year, because these wines develop well over time; how good they are can vary. For example, right now the 1996’s and 2004’s are just spot on and drinking very well!
The 2005’s have great tannin levels especially in the St-Julien and St.Estephe with a lot of concentrated fruit. Margaux, Graves and Pomerol’s quality was remarkably consistent and elegant. The fruit is round and rich which makes them approachable. Even the minor wines were of remarkable quality.
An interesting phenomenon occurred over the past 10 years. With the 2000 vintage considered so great, prices skyrocketed. The same occurred in 2005. Two earth shattering Bordeaux vintages in a decade! What is even more unusual is that the 2009 Bordeaux vintage is being tasted in barrels by critics currently and is being heralded as another blockbuster. How could this be? three stunning vintages in a decade in the new millennium.
Now here’s the catch. The 2008 and the 2009 vintages are not going to be released to the market until 2012 and the 2007 has been held back and has not been fully released. The 2007 was considered an erratic vintage. Plus there is no doubt that the 2007 would bring the prices back down to earth. There’s a lot of 2005 still out there and the 2006’s are just starting to show up at the stores.
If you travel to one of our local wine establishments like B-21 on US19 in Tarpon Springs; ABC Fine Wine & Spirits (near the Toasted Pheasant, a great little modern French Bistro) on North Dale Mabry; or Vintage Wine Cellars on Henderson (right across the street from the adventurous Queen of Sheba Ethiopian restaurant) you will find plenty of the great 2005’s.
Furthermore, because the 2005’s are so good, one can find great bargains even now. Now is the time to snatch them up. There are many sleepers and over performers in 2005. Many of these wines are just as good as those selling for $75 to $125 per bottle. Great 2005’s like Reignac, Charmail, Chateau D’Escurac and Chateaux Poujeaux are just hard to believe and are all priced between $20 to $35 and they’ll easily age well for many years.
Some 2005 Bordeaux values under $20 to seek out are Chateau Trebiac from Graves; Epicurea from Cotes De Bourg and Cote Montpezat Cuvee Compostelle from Cotes de Castillon. They will not disappoint. Sometimes it’s impossible to generalize but in this case run out and get some of these wines while you still can.
Jefferson 4th of July barbecue and wine pairing
Thomas Jefferson once famously said, “No nation is drunken where wine is cheap and none sober where the dearness of wine substitutes arden sprits as the common beverage…” He cared about the social pace of fine wine dining but he wanted to make a less formal atmosphere at his parties. He was determined that a mellow atmosphere with good wines added up to a more cordial acceptance of his suggestions for running the country.
As we gear up for the 4th of July holiday, barbecue and good friends come to mind as well as great wine. Grilling requires mature, full reds with tannins and heavy dark fruit. While grilling, use intense heat to seal all the juices in the meat and form a crusty outside whether it red meat, sausages or chicken. Since grilling uses high heat it’s fast. Think Red Zinfandel or a young Bordeaux from Cotes de Castillon. Since BBQ is is genarally heavy it matches well with heavier rustic wines. Think Oaky rich and fruity whites as well, like a Washington Reisling. The intense smokey flavors bounce on the palate. Put out some figs, strawberries, blueberries, watermelon and seedless grapes along a healthy serving of Camambert, Stilton, Spanish Manchego and Irish Cheddar and you have the makings of a great holiday spread.
Yes, cheeses are great too at the barbecue! Try the Camambert with the Bordeaux and watch your eyes roll back. Then try it with the cheddar and so on. Induldge! Invite your friends and family over and make sure you talk about the wine and how it all works because it does. Your holiday gang will appreciate it and to think this thought bubble all started with musing about Thomas Jefferson and a great real old book from the past called Jefferson and Wine by the Vineferas Wine Growers Association; nevertheless have great fourth!